Vegetable Biryani recipe

Rub the grains gently with your fingertips in the water until it turns cloudy, then stop once it runs nearly clear so you do not break the rice and make it sticky. Drain it well in a sieve so there is no excess water to throw off the cooking later.

Let the ghee shimmer but not smoke, and keep the heat at medium so the onion colours evenly rather than catching at the edges. You are looking for a deep golden, sweet aroma, not brown bitter bits.

Bloom the whole spices just long enough for them to become fragrant and start to sizzle, which releases their oils into the fat. If the pan is too hot, the spices can scorch and turn harsh.

Add the ginger and garlic only once the heat has dropped slightly, so they fry without sticking or burning. Stir until the raw smell softens and the mixture looks glossy rather than wet.

Keep the vegetables moving so they are coated in the spiced fat, and watch for the tomato to break down and start forming a thick sauce. The potato should be just beginning to yield at the edges, not fully collapsing.

Take the pan off the direct heat briefly if the yoghurt is very cold, then stir it in gradually to prevent splitting. The mixture should look creamy and lightly sauced, with the herbs still bright green.

Pour in the boiling water carefully around the sides so you do not wash the spices and vegetables to the surface in clumps. The liquid should sit just above the rice, but not so high that the biryani turns soupy.

Keep the lid sealed firmly and resist lifting it, as escaping steam is what finishes the rice evenly. If the heat is too high, the bottom will scorch before the centre is tender, so aim for the faintest simmer only.

Leave the pan undisturbed so the steam settles and the grains finish separating without turning mushy. When you fluff, use a light lifting motion rather than stirring, to keep the rice long and distinct.